Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray blanc moelleux 2009 (75 cl)

Sur ce vin en particulier:

Guide Bettane et Desseauve : Tout en délicatesse. Le vin commence à s?ouvrir, minéral, avec une longueur subtile et de très beaux arômes de fruits confits et de coing. L?équilibre est superbe.

Guide RVF des meilleurs vins de France 2014 : les moelleux sont toujours des modèles du genre, le 2010 plus nerveux et réservé, et le 2009 plus richement constitué, très harmonieux, remarquable de persistance et de finesse de texture pour sa concentration en sucres.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (David Schildknecht, août 2010): Candied grapefruit and lime peel in the nose of Foreau?s 2009 Vouvray Moelleux ? a wine from largely over-ripe but not botrytized fruit ? anticipate a tactile sense of palate attack that he thinks is too often lacking in wines of this vintage. A hint of white raisin woven into the candied citrus rind- and quince preserve-dominated palate here points to a level of ripeness that in Foreau vintages of an earlier era might have signaled a special reserve moelleux. Peppermint, white pepper, and citrus zest deliver piquant contrast to the candied sweetness in a finish of hugely impressive, sustained grip. Foreau thinks this ultimately superior to the corresponding 2008 (just as he agrees that 2008 has the edge in sec and demi-sec) but I am not prepared to go that far. Certainly, though, it is early days for this 2009 moelleux, a wine likely to reveal many additional facets over the next quarter-century.