€51.00 / bouteille
The widow of the legendary Marcel Lapierre and their children Mathieu (in the vineyard since 2005), Camille and Anne extend the myth built by force of work and convictions. Biodynamy, inspired by Marcel Lapierre by the forerunner Jules Chauvet, remains the main philosophy of the vineyard, which is based on exceptional vines and terroir: Black gamayas with white juices (15 ha) are aged 70 years on average, And situations and exhibitions are ideal (Côte du Py, Corcelette, Montplain).
Here the approach of "organic" is perfectly modern and objective, and we are far from the followers sometimes integrist of this philosophy. As proof, two vintages of the famous Morgon are produced each year, one without and the other with (very little) sulfur, unfiltered. The first is more fragile and delicate to carry (the outside temperature must never exceed 14 ° C !), The second is therefore more "regular" in tasting. These wines both need a time of aeration to exhale their aromas and express the crunch and fruity that makes the world's reputation.
The wines are bred a little less than a year in barrels of several wines (some of which come from the Romanée Conti ...), and their balance between structure and fruit is legendary.
The relief is now well established, and for a long time.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate : Mathieu Lapierre was busy elsewhere when I visited and so after a short wait listening to what must be the loudest frogs in the world (they must be biodynamic), it was his sister Camille who escorted me through the wines. I have met her briefly before, a dynamic young vigneronne who, as well as making wines at the domaine, seems to be behind the thriving local music scene. Perhaps that is more important than ever these days - to take winemakers' minds off of the hailstorms that seem to plague Beaujolais in 2016. Camille travelled wine regions, honing her craft, between 2010 and 2013 before returning to the region to work alongside Mathieu and the siblings share responsibilities around the winery at the moment. Probably the big news in 2015 is that they decided not to make a separate non-sulphite cuvée of their Morgon in 2015. "The 2015 vintage is the first time we have not made a Morgon without sulphur," Camille told me. "There was a high level alcohol so it was hard for the yeast to finish fermenting the sugar and we were afraid of the stability of wine. So we added 15 mg/liter added at the time of bottling. It was a big decision to make. I had often discussed with Mathieu - what would happen if we didn't have the sulphite and non-sulphite cuvées, as our father had always made it." Tasting through their 2014s and 2015s I was impressed by the purity and energy in these wines. In particular the 2015 Morgon Cuvée Camille, due to be bottled the following day, just seemed to light up the senses. Unfortunately I could not taste the 2015 Morgon Cuvée Marcel Lapierre since it was still fermenting! These wines come highly recommended whether the idea of biodynamics turns you on or not - they are just great wines that are a joy to drink.
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